You’ve got this protein thing down. You’re tracking your macros, weighing the pros and cons of coffee versus vegan powders, and timing your intake to your workouts. But there may be one part of the protein conversation you’re not considering—and it involves your skin.
Your complexion consists of a vast network of proteins—what researchers call the skin proteome—and there’s one, in particular, that’s essential to keeping it healthy, glowing, and youthful: collagen. This protein is primarily responsible for that effortlessly smooth, bouncy glow of youth—and most of us don’t give it much thought until it starts to disappear. “As we age, collagen production naturally declines, leading to wrinkles, loss of firmness, and sagging,” says Tiffany J Libby, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Rhode Island. “This process typically starts around age twenty-five and accelerates in our thirties and forties.” Of course, the timeline varies based on your genetics, and external factors and lifestyle habits can have a significant impact.
Meet the experts: Tiffany J Libby, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Rhode Island. Muneeb Shah, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist with Hudson Dermatology & Laser Surgery in New York City and founder of Remedy. Kseniya Kobets, MD, is the director of cosmetic dermatology at Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care. Karan Lal, DO, is a board-certified dermatologist based in Scottsdale, Arizona.
Kind of a downer, sure. But here’s the good news: there are proven ways to support and rebuild your skin’s collagen production—and we’re going to serve them up to you.
But first, here’s a little biology lesson.
What is collagen?
Collagen is a structural protein that gives skin its shape and strength. “Collagen accounts for 30% of your body’s overall protein, and is found in the skin, muscles, bones, and connective tissues,” says Dr. Libby.
This integral protein is composed primarily of amino acids (glycine, proline, and hydroxyproline, to be specific), which link together to create it’s characteristic triple-helix structure. “As the most abundant protein in the dermis, collagen provides volume and works alongside elastin to support skin’s firmness, elasticity, and youthful appearance,” says Muneeb Shah, MD, a board-certified dermatologist with Hudson Dermatology & Laser Surgery in New York City and founder of Remedy.
How collagen degrades over time.
We produce collagen most efficiently in our twenties. “After that, not only do we begin losing about 1% of collagen per year, but our ability to regenerate it also declines,” says Kseniya Kobets, MD, director of cosmetic dermatology at Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care. Fibroblasts (the skin cells that make collagen) become less active and collagen production becomes less efficient. This process typically begins in your thirties, varies by ethnicity, and speeds up by menopause.
And that’s not all: On top of the natural degradation of this essential building block, the onslaught of daily life and certain lifestyle habits also take their toll. “Collagen is constantly being broken down by sun exposure, environmental stressors, and enzymes within the body,” says Dr. Shah. Free radicals, unstable molecules generated by UV radiation and pollution attack and degrade the protein. And certain lifestyle factors aren’t helping matters: smoking and a high-sugar diet can all affect our stores of collagen. “Less obvious contributors include chronic stress, poor sleep, and environmental pollution,” Dr. Shah adds.
The result: a gradual loss of skin structure, leading to wrinkles, rough texture, enlarged pores, crepey skin, and increased fragility, often experienced as easy bruising, says Dr. Shah. The early signs of collagen loss often show around the eyes, mouth (even in non-smokers), and forehead—typically areas where there’s a lot of expression from facial movement. By our forties and fifties, “fine lines deepen due to continued collagen and elastin loss and compounded by a loss of bone and fat in the cheeks and jawline, causing sagging around the jowls and neck,” says Dr. Kseniya Kobets.
Basically, when collagen dips, your features look a less snatched.
Happily, there is skincare that can help
Now, some good news: you can protect what you have. “The most effective approach involves minimizing collagen breakdown by maintaining a nutrient-rich diet, wearing SPF 30 or higher daily, and incorporating proven ingredients such as retinoids, antioxidants, and peptides into your skincare routine,” Dr. Kobets says. Here’s your action plan:
Don’t skip SPF
“The first way to build collagen is to prevent its excessive breakdown with daily sunscreen use,” says Karan Lal, DO, a board-certified dermatologist based in Scottsdale, Arizona. UV radiation is one of the biggest culprits behind collagen breakdown, contributing to wrinkles, sagging skin, and premature aging. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen SPF 30 or higher to help reduce sun damage at the level of the dermis where collagen lives, says Dr. Lal.
3 Great Sunscreens For Different Skin Types
No one does SPF quite like the Australians, and this Ozzie brand crafted what our beauty director Brian Underwood says is his favorite sunscreen for oily skin. “It has a blurry and mattifying effect that works wonders on my often-greasy T-zone,” he says. It’s also great for those who prefer mineral-only formulas: This one features 22.75% zinc oxide and is slightly tinted so it won’t leave behind a white cast.
With a watery consistency, this formula is tops at providing weightless hydration that won’t leave behind an unflattering greasiness. It contains chemical filters (avobenzone, homosalate, octisalate, and octocrylene) plus a heavy dose of humectants like hyaluronic acid and glycerin to moisturize.
Mineral is the way to go if you have a cranky outer layer, and this inexpensive option features zinc oxide as its main sun protective ingredient. But it’s what’s not in there that is just as important: The formula is free of common irritants, such as fragrance, oils, dyes, phthalates, PABA, and parabens.
Next, use a retinoid (if you don’t already)
Retinoids are widely regarded as the most effective topical ingredients for stimulating collagen. You’re likely familiar with these popular vitamin A derivatives, which are considered the gold standard ingredient for treating acne, improving skin texture, and smoothing fine lines and one of the most proven skincare ingredients you can by. “They work by activating fibroblasts to produce more collagen and by inhibiting enzymes that break it down,” explains Dr. Shah.
The strongest form of vitamin A is retinoic acid and it’s only available by a prescription from your doctor. OTC retinoids like retinol, adapalene, and retinaldehyde are less potent because your body must first convert them into pure retinoic acid. On the upside, they tend to be much less irritating.
3 Effective Retinoid Options
A potent time-released retinol is paired with brightening ingredients like vitamin C and licorice root and three peptides to enhance the products skin-firming benefits. Despite the promise that this product is suitable for sensitive skin, start slow—using the product once or twice a week—to ensure you don’t experience any major irritation.
Once available only by prescription, Differin’s gold-standard adapalene gel can now be purchased at mass retailers over-the-counter. It’s a once-daily treatment that can treat a majority of acne in just twelve weeks, according to one study.
Support with antioxidants and peptides
Topical vitamin C has also been shown to help slow down collagen breakdown and is essential for the enzymes the build collagen to function properly, says Dr. Lal. Peptides like Matrixyl can signal skin to produce more collagen. Antioxidants—including niacinamide, ferulic acid, squalane, and vitamin E—help protect existing collagen from free radical damage.
3 Great Peptide And Antioxidant Serums
Vitamin C has proven skin-rejuvenating powers. The trouble? It’s notoriously difficult to formulate with. But this serum was designed and developed by a top cosmetic chemist to be stable and powerful (there’s 20% of the active ingredient in this bottle).
So how do you incorporate all of these products into your routine—and should you? First, start with lighter serums like vitamin C, then apply heavier creams or oils. Retinoids should be used at night and introduced gradually. “I like to layer vitamin C in the morning followed by sunscreen, and retinoids in the evening,” says Dr. Libby. “Peptides and moisturizers like hyaluronic acid can be layered with both for additional hydration and repair.”
How your dermatologist can help.
In-office treatments can help stimulate collagen production through controlled injury or thermal energy, which activates the body’s own wound healing response, stimulating fibroblasts to churn out more collagen. “As your skin heals from these minor injuries, the resulting collagen fills in wrinkles, scars, and enlarged pores, improving skin texture and firmness,” says Dr. Kobets.
The right treatment depends on a patient’s skin concerns, age, and skin condition, says Dr. Libby. “Younger patients in their 20s and 30s may be advised to focus on prevention and early maintenance with chemical peels and lighter laser skin tightening. While patients in their forties and beyond may benefit from more corrective treatments like ablative fractional lasers or ultrasound and radiofrequency to address existing collagen loss and sagging,” she says.
Here’s what our experts recommend:
- Chemical Peels: Medium-depth chemical peels (like Jessner’s) use a blend of acids to remove the outermost layers of skin. They work primarily on the skin’s surface, but can also stimulate collagen remodeling below. These are most suitable for younger patients with minimal collagen loss, says Dr. Libby.
- Laser Resurfacing: Patients in their forties and beyond may benefit more from ablative and non-ablative fractional lasers. “These treatments partially ablate and heat the skin to trigger collagen repair and remodeling,” says Dr. Kobets. Examples include C02 lasers (ablative) and Fraxel (non-ablative), and Halo (both). “Ablative fractional lasers or ultrasound and RF therapy to address existing collagen loss and sagging,” adds Dr. Libby.
- Microneedling: “Microneedling mechanically penetrates the dermis to stimulate collagen formation,” Dr. Kobets says. “It can be enhanced by combining it with platelet-rich plasma (PRP), which reduces downtime and further boosts collagen synthesis.” Derived from your own blood, PRP contains growth factors that can speed both healing and results.
- Radiofrequency Microneedling: These cutting-edge treatments like the famoust Morpheus8 intensifies the traditional microneedling with heat-based energy. “It promotes deeper collagen remodeling through both physical injury and heat,” Dr. Kobets says, making it especially effective for skin tightening and deeper wrinkles.
- Ultrasound Devices: For a non-invasive option, devices like Sofwave rely on focused heat to stimulate collagen deep below the surface. “This heat breaks down old collagen and signals the body to produce fresh collagen while clearing out the damaged matrix. The result is firmer, tighter skin over several weeks,” says Dr. Kobets.
- Biostimular Fillers: Injectible fillers can stimulate collagen production over time. “ Sculptra and Radiesse are the probably the best ways to build collagen locally,” says Dr. Lal.
Can you build collagen through diet?
Eating collagen doesn’t rebuild collagen, so you can’t exactly replace what’s been lost in your face through your diet. But you can support your skin with what you eat. One essential nutrient to overall skin health, according to research, is vitamin C, “which helps your body build strong collagen by activating enzymes that stabilize and form it,” says Dr. Kobets. “Without enough of this vitamin, collagen formation is impaired—scurvy is a good example of this.” Citrus fruits, bell peppers, and leafy greens are all excellent sources.
While collagen-rich foods like bone broth and gelatin are often praised, they’re not broken down in a way that specifically targets the skin. “Because these proteins are distributed throughout the body once digested, they don’t necessarily reach the skin directly,” she adds. Also watch the sugar, which can cause a collagen-damaging process known as glycation. “Glycation is essentially when sugar interacts with collagen, creating a modified form of collagen called advanced glycation end products or AGEs, which are stiffer, less pliable, and break down faster than healthy collagen,” says Dr. Shah.
What about collagen creams and supplements?
Much has been said about the effectiveness or ineffectiveness of taking oral collagen supplements to help improve the appearance of your skin. So what does the science say? They can help, but “not all collagens are alike,” says Dr. Lal. “Verisol collagen supplementation has been shown to improve skin quality which often translates to reducing collagen breakdown.”
In fact, one study of more than 100 women ranging in age from 45-65 years old found that taking a Verisol collagen supplement experienced a statistically significant increase in collagen and elastin in skin that resulted in a significant reduction in eye wrinkle volume. Dr. Lal’s go-to is Sparkle Wellness Skin Boost Collagen Powder.
Dr. Libby agrees they’re not a first-line strategy but doesn’t discourage patients from taking them. Some research has show that hydrolyzed collagen peptides may help improve elasticity, hydration, and reduce fine lines by replenishing the body’s collagen stores. “While I don’t typically recommend them as a primary treatment, many patients do report benefits—like firmer skin or even less joint stiffness or bloating. And I don’t tell them to stop if they feel it’s helping,” she says.
As far as collagen creams—which are created using a synthetic, lab-made version of collagen—our experts say it’s a pass. “A common myth is that topical collagen can rebuild your skin’s collagen, but, in reality, these creams primarily hydrate to temporarily plumps skin,” says Kobets. “The ingredient cannot penetrate deeply enough to stimulate collagen production.” Use it as a moisturizer but don’t rely on it for collagen-boosting support.
Losing collagen is a natural part of the aging, but with a great skincare routine and smart nutrition, there’s no need to rush process.
Erica Metzger is an established beauty director, freelance writer, brand consultant, and content creator with 19 years of industry experience in print and digital media. She is the founder and editor of The Beauty Loop, a weekly industry newsletter that reaches 600+ beauty journalists and PR executives. Previously, Erica was the beauty, fashion, and travel director at Better Homes & Gardens and the beauty director at Ladies’ Home Journal, along with its MIN-award winning beauty blog Gloss Daily. She has written for Allure, Women’s Health, NY Magazine’s The Strategist, The Zoe Report, O Daily, Refinery29, Seventeen, Shape, and Martha Stewart Living. Erica has also appeared on GMA, TODAY, E! News, and ABC News as a beauty expert. She lives in Forest Hills, NY with her husband and two daughters.
Brian Underwood is beauty director at Women’s Health, where he oversees content strategy for the brand across all platforms, including digital, print, and social. Underwood previously served as beauty and wellness director at Oprah Daily and O, The Oprah Magazine. During his tenure leading beauty content for the Oprah brand at Hearst, stories Underwood commissioned were awarded the Skin Cancer Foundation Media Award and a Fragrance Award for Editorial Excellence (his second). He was the launch Beauty Director of Dr. Oz THE GOOD LIFE, and has held additional editorial positions at Fitness, Organic Style, Good Housekeeping, Life & Style Weekly, and Woman’s Day and has written for Self, Shape, Seventeen, Redbook, Cosmopolitan, and many more. Underwood previously served on the Skin Cancer Foundation’s gala committee and as partnerships director of the Trans Beauty Clinic, a New York-based charitable organization that provided beauty services and workshops to the city’s trans community.
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