Spotting ants around your property is bound to happen from time to time, but seeing an abundance of ants? There might be a colony that’s invited themselves to move in with you. Finding an overwhelming amount of ants in or around certain areas of your yard might mean there’s a source nearby calling their name. Ants are known to flock to food sources, areas of high moisture, or places that provide shelter that you might not know you’re offering them. That’s why we spoke to two pest experts for the things they say are common culprits for ant invasions around a home. Here are the seven things that are attracting ants to your yard and how to minimize the sources for an ant-free landscape.
Left-Out Food Scraps
The first and biggest source of attraction for ants is any food source, predominantly scraps that are easily accessible. “Ants are constantly on the hunt for food, and any accessible source will draw them in,” McKendall says. “This includes pet food left outdoors, fallen fruit from trees, compost piles with food scraps, and even sugary residues from spilled drinks or trash cans.”
While you may have “cleaned up” from last week’s barbecue or put the lid on a trash can, Bossel says sometimes an invisible clean isn’t enough to keep the ants at bay. “Invisible sugar left behind after a spill can also draw worker ants by the dozens. Once a scout finds food, the whole colony will follow a scent trail right into your grass or flower beds.”
Water or Moisture
Ants love water and moisture whether it’s for survival or a damp environment to live in. Bossel says this is the next things on the list, second to food, to attract ants to your yard that can come from various sources. “Leaky hoses, dripping faucets, or a birdbath with stale water can keep soil damp and perfect for ant tunnels,” he says. “Ants thrive where water pools for hours after a rain, especially along the house foundation or under mulch.”
Trash or Compost
Like food, your outside trash bins or compost piles are other areas that are highly attractive for ants. These areas offer them more food sources, so McKendall says any open or poorly closed lids are just asking for ants to come in. “They are especially drawn to sugary or greasy food waste, and these areas often also provide shelter and warmth,” he says. So make sure those lids stay tightly closed!
Mulch Beds
The outdoor flower bed you worked hard on looks beautiful and stunning, even with the mulch, but sadly, this can be another high-ticket area for ants to flock to. McKendall says that mulch or other organic yard debris like leaf piles, grass clippings, and other organic debris provide shelter and nesting material ants love. “These moist and shaded environments offer ideal nesting sites for many ant species, especially during hot or dry conditions,” he says.
Overgrown Plants
Along with mulch and other organic material, failing to keep up with your yard maintenance can attract these tiny critter-crawlers too. Bossel says, “Overgrown vegetation sets up a buffet and a shelter all at once. Ivy, tall grass, and shrubs pressed against siding offer shade, cover and a direct path from nest to food.”
Some of the worst overgrown vegetation that welcomes ants? Flowering plants. “Sweet scents and nectar-rich blooms are a two-in-one attractant. Add in aphids, and now you have ants farming honeydew on your roses like it is a job,” he says.
Aphid-Infested Plants
And speaking of aphids and overgrown plants, any plants with aphids already lingering around can be a big problem for a possible invasion. “Ants are attracted to the honeydew secreted by aphids and other sap-feeding insects,” McKendall says. “If your garden has an aphid problem, ants may farm these insects for their sweet secretions, increasing ant activity around affected plants.” So it’s always best to keep an eye on your plants for any aphids to remove before it causes an even bigger problem.
Already Established Colonies
Lastly, one of the other biggest reasons you might be seeing an influx of ants in your yard is from an already established colony. A colony might have been formed from one of the above sources in your yard. Once a colony forms, more ants will follow and the colony will start to expand.
How To Treat Ant Infestations In Your Yard
So, how do you treat an ant infestation in your yard? Should you automatically call in a professional pest exterminator? Both of our experts say you don’t need to pick up the phone right away. There are a few home remedies you can try yourself to get rid of an ant infestation. The most obvious? Start with cleaning up any open or accessible food sources.
The next thing our experts say to try is to keep your yard well maintained. McKendall says cleaning up debris piles, fixing any leaking hoses, or disrupting colonies are all good places to start before you seal any gaps or cracks in your pavement with caulk.
Bossel says minor infestations can handle the use any gel-based bait solution. “Gel-based and granule ant baits are proven for long-term ant control. You just have to make sure that the ants need carry bait back to the colony,” he says. “You will need at least 1 station per 2500 square feet of open space, and patience of 2 to 7 days for full impact.”
Another home remedy to try with store-bought ingredients is a borax and sugar bait. “Mix one part borax with three parts sugar and place small amounts in shallow containers, like bottle caps, near ant trails,” McKendall says. “The sugar attracts the ants, while the borax poisons the colony slowly as they carry it back to the nest. Keep this out of reach of pets and children.”
When To Call In A Professional
Tried these home remedies but still see ants? Then it’s definitely time to call in a professional. Leaving an infestation untreated can lead to several issues like property damage or health concerns. “If you see damage, like carpenter ants chewing through wood, or fire ants biting kids and pets, call someone licensed,” says Bossel. “Bites that cause welts or allergic reactions, or piles of sawdust under the deck, mean those ants are doing real harm.”
He says you can expect professionals to cost between $100 to $500 but are well worth it for their perimeter treatments and colony elimination.
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